Written by:
6/26/2012 12:39 AM 

A tempest has been raging for the last seven days.  It can’t be found on any grib file or hydrographic chart, but it rages nonetheless.  Excitement and fear combine in my mind releasing adrenalin which only creates more fear and excitement.  It is a dangerous loop unchecked, but can also be used to great effect when harnessed.

The last seven days have been a whirlwind of activity.  Langkawi is a small island, but most of the gear I’ve needed I’ve been able to find.  With so many miles to cross and only a very few isolated islands to stop along the way Jargo must be self sufficient before putting to sea.  The voyage will be made more difficult by yet another equatorial crossing.  The third on my voyage so far.  Typically this involves several hundred miles of motoring until I can find the SE trade winds now blowing in the Southern hemisphere.  That many miles under motor require diesel.  That lifeblood is both expensive and hard to come by once I leave Malaysia.

There is another irrational fear I’ve carried with me before every single long passage.  The fear of running out of food.  Fresh provisions only last a few weeks at best.  That means once the last tomato, orange, and potato have been eaten my diet is all about dry goods and tin cans.  Between fuel and food I’ve sunk Jargo’s waterline a good 10 inches.  Every nook and cranny on the boat has some foodstuff or treat stuffed into it.  A snickers bar at the right moment can be a godsend.  With luck I’ll catch several fish to supplement my diet, but I never count on the mercy of the big pelagic fish to take my lures.  Between rice, pasta, noodles, corned beef, and canned chicken curry I know I won’t starve.  It doesn’t mean I won’t worry about rationing my food from day one.

Today I let go of the mooring ball Jargo has been tied to off and on for almost six months.  The thrill of being underway immediately filled my heart with the joy of being back on passage.  I have not yet departed for Indo as I have three more jobs to complete.  The first is to take on all the water I can carry.  This time of year Indonesia burns their fields to prepare for planting.  That smoke drifts across the Malacca Strait to Malaysia.  The water I collected from rain tastes exactly like tea made from the ashes of a bond fire.  Putting to sea with 140 gallons of off putting water didn’t seem a good idea.  Tomorrow I’ll pick up my anchor and head into a marina for a few hours to take on water, wash the decks down, and fill my nearly empty propane bottles.  That completes my provisioning for the voyage.

Today or after I visit the marina tomorrow morning I must jump over the side and clear the marine growth from Jargo’s propeller and belly.  Barnacles and weed severely reduce the engines efficiency and miles I make good under motor so the growth has to go.  That task clears the way to up anchor and put to sea.  So where am I going?  I’ve agonized over the route, but here is the plan as of today.

There is still too much traffic for a single hander to run down the Malacca Strait to the Sunda Strait and into the Indian Ocean.  That leaves me one option.  Cross back to Sumatra’s North tip and work down the Sumatran islands until I pick up the trade winds.  Indonesia is the most corrupt nation I’ve ever encountred and my plan is to not check into the country and stay under the radar.  That will save hundreds of dollars in checking in and out fees plus the bribes every official seems to want.  It is risky, but any fines I might encounter will still be cheaper than going through the formal process.

Pulau Weh has been the most beautiful place I’ve found in the whole of SE Asia.  It will be a pleasure to return to that island as my first stop on this leg of the journey.  I should be able to squeeze three or four days there before I’ll start worrying about customs and immigration.  As soon as I feel any heat I’ll jump again and work South through the outer islands.  I came North from Bali this route, but had no information on the region.  This time I have many waypoints for good anchorages and even a couple of beach breaks.  I hope to spend a week or two working South swimming and surfing anytime I feel like stopping. 

With luck, I’ll begin to pick up the trade winds around 4 degrees South latitude.  As soon as I can kill the Perkins 4108 I’ll try to make sail for the Australian island of Cocos Keeling.  My good friends on s/v Mooneshine will be departing Bali for Cocos in mid July and I’d love to reconnect with them.  While I love the solo passages exploring new islands with friends is always more fun.  Sadly, this may or may not be possible.

Cocos is due South of Pulau Weh and depending how much South is in those SE trade winds I may not be able to hold course for the island.  If that is the case I’ll peel off the Sumatran Coast and head direct for Rodriguez Island which is part of the Mauritius group.  Everything after that is up in the air, but I’d love to head North a bit to explore Madagascar before cutting South again to make landfall in Durban, South Africa.  I’ve got six months and miles to cover.

Ships and sailors rot in port.  Prepping for this passage has knocked the lethargy from my bones just the same as my scraper will knock the barnacles from Jargo’s prop.  It feels good.  As an aside, I am down to SSB voice for ships communications and the SPOT device will not cover much past Cocos Keeling islands.  Blogs and updates will be sparse, but will come any time I have internet access in the islands.  Much love to friends and family.

Lee

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