Oct 10

Written by:
10/10/2011 2:15 AM 

September 30^th – En Route to SE Asia

I’ve been on passage now for 32 hours. For some reason I have had to force myself to start the log. Conditions are not conducive for a sail from Darwin, Australia to Bali, Indonesia, but it is beautiful nonetheless. My course lies due West, but I am bucking a 5 – 10 knot Westerly breeze. The current here is strong and when it sets against me with the tide my progress drops to less than 2 knots an hour. Despite slow progress the sea is calm, the sky a pale blue, and the sun pounds down on everything in sight.

Most of the day was spent chasing a pooping petrel from the dingy davits and bow pulpit. He had a persistence I admired. A small pod of dolphins lazily kept pace with Jargo for almost half an hour. One daring soul showed me just how easy it was for him to jump clear out of the sea and do a mid air 360 twist before diving back in again. There is something about seeing dolphins around the boat that seems like old friends coming home again for a visit.

The flat sea let me put into practice an idea I’ve had for awhile. Three dollars at the Aussie K-Mart bought six tea spoons. A few minutes with a drill, some split rings, a swivel, and a hook and I have a new trolling spoon. Sadly at 2.5 knots I don’t expect to catch much, but maybe once the winds change my home made lure can entice something over for dinner.

October 1^st - Settling In

Maybe I lost my Zen or maybe not, but it sure does feel good to tick off miles in the right direction. Even if I am getting it done with the engine. I hate to burn the diesel, but until I push a bit more West I don’t have much hope of picking up a sailing breeze. It is hot cooking here under the tropical sun, but I still sit and wonder at the beauty.

My fridge and freezer started acting up just as I left New Zealand earlier this year. The fridge is limping along, but the freezer needs parts before it can go back in service. I can’t freeze meat for passages, but it does happen to hold a pretty solid 60*F. It just so happens that is the perfect lagering temperature for home brewing beer and sake. I don’t have all the ingredients I’d have liked to use, but the first batch of sake is in the fermenter. In about a month I’ll get to find out if it is drinkable or not. I catch so much wonderful sushi grade fish along the way it has been a shame not to enjoy it with a glass of cold sake.

It is another beautiful day at sea. Brewing days work done I am off to clean up a bit, read, and watch the trolling spoon swim behind the boat.

October 2^nd – A Beautiful Day at Sea

Some days at sea are better than others. The wind finally picked up a bit and shifted further South allowing me to head nearly West. With 10 to 15 knots of breeze Jargo can point into the breeze and make 4 – 5 knots comfortably.

The poop filled petrel must have pooped an H with a circle around it because my solar panel has become the landing pad for all kinds of birds. Today a large light green footed boobie bird made a home of my power source. Sitting in the cockpit I was zoned out watching the waves when he squawked at me and nearly made me jump off the boat. Finally looking aft he looked at me as though I’d intruded on his personal space. As it turned out, after posing for a few close ups, he became shy and flew the silicon table. Looking into his eyes I still can’t shake the theory that not all dinosaurs died at the end of the Cretacious period. That eye easily convinces me the survivors evolved into the winged beasts we see around us most every day.

As tuna go he would not win a fishing competition, but he was proof positive my Mock One trolling spoon works. A small tuna, maybe weighing 3 pounds hit the lure and now sizzles in a bit of olive oil in my pan. I’ll lightly sear the outside leaving the inside of each filet red raw. The wasabi past is building flavor in the soy sauce. Ah, if only the sake was ready to drink.

October 3^rd – Could someone please move Timor?

I’ve sat most of the day watching my compass and wind gauge like most guys watch Sunday football. The winds have pushed me more than 100 miles North of my original course. I’ve been agonizing over the need to tack back to the Southeast so that I can clear the islands of Timor and Roti. Little did I realize there is a six mile gap between these two islands that will save me a 120+ mile detour. Unfortunately it means running in close to land and dodging local fishing craft, but the short cut should be worth it. I am just barely holding course to cut through the gap. If a little luck will hold I can sail right through. If not, no worries, I’ll just fire up the engine to cover the 5 – 20 miles I am off course under power.

As the fermentation in the sake pot builds so does my excitement. The last time I brewed anything was back in graduate school almost a decade ago now. With each

bubble of carbon dioxide in the air lock I know my yeast is turning the rice sugars into delicious sake. If this batch turns out I may try my hand at some red wine or a nice Sierra Nevada style beer. Alcohol in all its forms has been a big expense across the Pacific. Tomorrow the brew pot gets the last addition of steamed rice and water. The day after it goes in the lagering fridge (my broken freezer) to ferment out over the next 2 – 3 weeks. Mmmmm…..sake.

October 5^th – Damn Short Cuts & Sketchy Fishing Boats

The past 48 hours have been a little too exciting. The short cut between Timor and Roti saved lots of sea miles, but could have ended badly. Halfway through the strait the tide turned against my route. For the first time I found myself stuck in tide rips. The path led through the lee of Roti which should have left me settled seas and easy sailing. When the tide reversed direction a massive swell seemed to come from directly below me throwing Jargo about like a dandelion seed in a storm. With no good wind for sailing I powered up the engine and motored for a solid hour through the tumultuous waves before getting clear. Luck brought me through the channel well clear of any dangers, but I’ve earned a new found respect for tide rips. Sadly these were not noted on any chart or guidebook I’ve got for the area.

Once through the channel I began making way for the next set of islands to the West I’d need to clear. The wind helped shifting South allowing me to make good progress. Several boats dotted the horizon as usual, but one seemed intent on closing the gap between us.

After crossing my bow not 200 yards in front of Jargo I thought I was done with this local fisherman. Dropping below I made dinner and only came back up 30 minutes later to check my progress. Sure enough the same fisherman was crossing my bow again. I was forced to alter course to give us adequate space, but once across, the vessel tacked again. Now, inexplicably, the captain was on an intercept course 500 – 600 feet away. For the first time on this voyage I began preparing for the worst.

Immediately I fired the engine, tacked, and sheeted all sails in tight. The move quickly put some distance between us and set Jargo up for future evasive maneuvers. A mile clear I dropped below and prepared my firearm. Never before have I even considered pulling it from the hidden locker where it is stored. Sadly, and for the first time, I was running through scenarios in my mind for defense.

The sun had just set and I’d put two miles between the vessel and I before he turned again and began closing the distance. I hailed him on the VHF not expecting a response, but because I wanted the shipping traffic in the region to hear my vessel name in case they heard it again later under distress. I’d made up my mind that I’d evade as long as possible with maneuvering. If the boat closed close enough to board I’d fire warning shots. My hope was that the firearm would be deterrent enough to prevent them from boarding.

Just as quickly as the perceived threat came it vanished. The boat closed to within a quarter of a mile. I was running black at 6.2 knots, but still plainly visible in the bright moonlight. All of a sudden the boat turned across my transom and sped off to the South. His lights dropped below the horizon within 15 minutes. My guess is this boat never intended any harm at all. I just couldn’t understand his actions and not seeing any nets or lines out from his boat I couldn’t excuse the constant closing of the distance between us.

This is a very well beaten path for cruising boats and I’ve not heard of any problems in recent years. Timor used to be under much unrest, but I understand it is settled and prosperous now. For better or worse, the scare has left me more prepared for any real trouble that may come in the future.

As I sail now making 5.8 knots under all plain sail I am relaxed and enjoying the reach. Today has been beautiful and clear. I hooked an 8 – 10 lb great barracuda off of one of the islands, but threw him back for fear of ciguatera in specimens that large. I am reading the ships log from Cpt. Cooks first voyage around the world. He’s just completed his exploration of New Zealand and is rapidly catching up to me. I think he and I shared a certain relief and joy at quitting New Zealand. Around 350 miles to Bali.

October 6^th- Fishing boats on sea moorings?

Shifty light winds kept me from getting much rest last night. No big deal. It happens. The sails just needed lots of trimming and I couldn’t find a course that would keep the sails full when rolling on the swell. That left me a bit dozy today. As usual, that is typically when I need to be on my toes.

Unknowingly I ventured into a local fishing hot spot. The horizon has been dotted with a couple dozen fishing boats from smaller pangas to larger trawlers. Most of them seemed to be standing on station which made navigating through them fairly easy. Passing by one I could see large mooring lines leading from his bow to what looked like a sea buoy. It is possible I guess, but the depth is over 3000 feet deep here!

Most were within a few hundred feet of their buoys but I noticed one boat fire on its engine and begin charging towards me as I approached. I couldn’t figure out what he was doing until I caught site of his buoy directly in front of me. It had been hidden in the swell. The fisherman was charging forward to his buoy to ensure I didn’t collide with it and entangle myself in his lines. He must have been 1000 – 2000 feet from his bouy. Fortunately he was the only boat not in close proximity to his mooring.

After that a few of the smaller boats passed heading in the opposite direction. Unlike the boat that scared me these guys where no cause for alarm. I think they are satellite boats operating in conjunction with the larger trawlers. One was close enough to give a friendly smile and a wave as they motored past. A good catch to you gentlemen.

October 7^th – 0 – 5 Knots, I hate you.

The winds have been mostly perfect for three days or more. Sometimes a little light and variable, but very workable. Today I am in those condition that nearly drive me mad. The winds are boxing the compass and howling at between zero and five knots. Not nearly enough of a breeze to keep the sails full. The swell isn’t large, but more than enough to roll the boat from side to side. When this happens the sails “pop” snapping full on one side and then the other. It is hard on the sails, the rig, and my mental state.

Instead of listening to the constant banging of the sails I just doused everything but the mizzen and kicked the engine on. I’d rather burn the diesel than let the rig work itself to death for no good mileage. The frustration is compounded due to the fact that I am only 140 miles from my anchorage in Bali. With even a 10 knot breeze I can average 5 – 6 knots and would easily make port tomorrow. Under engine alone I may have to heave too outside the harbor and wait for dawn the next day before proceeding to the anchorage.

To compound matters something seems to have gone wrong with my brew pot. What was a very vigorous fermentation has dropped off to almost nothing. This came with the last addition of malt rice and regular rice. I pitched some more yeast, but may have to dump this batch. We’ll see if it picks back up or not.

On a lighter note, Cpt. Cook noted a ships prank off of Australia. Apparently one of the midshipman had a beef with an able seaman. The seaman got drunk to the point of unconsciousness at which time the midshipman cut his clothes off of him. I couldn’t help but laugh at the idea of waking up and having to sew all your clothes back together. The obvious seam a constant reminder to all on board of the prank. Matters became a little less funny with the prank turned malicious and the midshipman cut a part of the seaman’s ears off. I’d say that was going a bit too far. I like a good prank, but come on. That’s a little too Reservoir Dogs.

October 8^th – Torture

For a time the winds picked up and I made six knots. I was happy for the progress thinking I’d easily make port before nightfall today. I now lay 32 miles from my anchorage, but might not make it in today. A wild current is coming out between the islands of Lombok and Bali. As I try to move Northwest it is pushing me Southwest. Running with 10 knots of wind and 2000 rpms on the diesel I am still only making 2.5 knots good towards my goal. Oh well, what can one do?

My hope is that once behind a small island, Nusa Lembongon, I’ll be hid from the current a bit. If I can up the speed just two knots then I can sneak into the anchorage before night fall. If not, I’ll get as close as I can and heave too until morning. Trying to keep it together on about 3 hours sleep in 36. Lots of fisherman and shipping traffic in the area. I am thinking the Malacca Strait from Bali to Malaysia might be a good place to see how I’d get on with crew. An extra eye to keep a watch in these waters would not go amiss.

Cook just finished repairing the HMS Endeavor in some islands just North of Bali. He took 16 days to move inland 120 miles against the same current I am fighting now. Fortunately for me Jargo is fitted out with a 50 HP diesel and I’ve got fuel to burn.

Bali. Maybe today, maybe not.

Around Noon: What a difference a change in tide makes! Over the course of three hours I watched my knots made good climb from 1.8 up slowly to 7.1! I am now just about 12 miles outside the entrance to the anchorage. I got something of a second wind with the excitement of finally making it to SE Asia. The boat is put together, the dishes have been done, ears cleaned, shower taken, and clean underwear on. Amazing how a good scrub can change how you feel. I am itching to get the anchor down and see if a few of my cruising friends are still kicking around Bali. Either way, I am going to have some fun today.