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Written by: 6/28/2010 9:54 AM
Deep in the recesses of my sleeping mind the sound begins to register. Wind. The wind is building and ripping through Jargo’s rigging, the stainless steel cables that support the main and mizzen masts. As the masts and cables cut the wind a resonate chord is achieved and it rings like a tuning fork held to my ear. The chord pierces my dream and I wake knowing that outside I’ve got 30 knots blowing. Not dangerous, but I seldom sleep when that resonate chord is singing in my rigging.
The GPS shows 4:30 a.m. as the first aromatic steam from the Italian coffee percolator hits my nose. A quick round on deck shows that everything is in place. My anchor, a 60 lb Manson Supreme, is well dug into the good holding sand 45 feet below. 200 feet of 3/8 inch BBB chain run from the Manson to a 20 foot 1/2 inch three strand snubber cleated on deck. Most racers talk of sailing skill. Put two cruisers together and much more often you’ll find a conversation about ground tackle. You might be the most skilled sailor in the world, but if you don’t keep your boat off the hull wrecking coral reefs around these Pacific anchorages you will not be sailing long.
The 580 mile run from the Marquesas to Rangiroa was challenging not for conditions like I have now, but for a complete lack of wind. Averaging less than 90 miles a day the wind could not keep the sails full against Jargo’s rolling in the Pacific swell. Imagine a shotgun blast next to your ear every 30 seconds as the main sail backfills on a roll to starboard only to fill again violently with a bang on the port roll. To date, it is by far the most maddening experience to be had aboard a sailboat.
That said, I can see the sand and coral below me in 45 feet of flowing crystal clear blue water. The islanders are happy and friendly and the village is well stocked. I’ve been making use of the wifi here in the anchorage for the last few days. The going rate is 20 hours for 50 Euro or around $65 USD. Internet speeds run at 12 Kbps max which means the little video in this blog took 5 hours to upload. Regardless, I am happy to report several additions.
First, since the videos may be more than a one off occurrence I’ve made them their own page on the navigation bar up top. Only two so far, but I still need to edit and cut footage from the Gulf of Mexico crossing as well as the big 21 day Pacific run. Is it just me or do people really seem to like video?
In addition to the videos page three new photo sets have been uploaded to Flickr accessible via the Photo Gallery link above. More to come there as well, but I’ve still got some work to do before I upload.
Given I am still well below the average age of most cruisers by more than two decades I just fall into the young sailor category out here. Because there are so few of us in our 20’s and 30’s we tend to gravitate towards each other when we pitch up in the same anchorage. It isn’t always the same with crew, but for those who’ve purchased, refit, and gone sailing there is usually a well defined drive that goes beyond the desire to cruise. Almost all of us are working out what endeavor we will throw our efforts into when the cruise is over. It is too early to call it yet, but I may have found another project. For now, two words. Jack. Tar.
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