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Day 485
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Galapagos: Too many random thoughts.

Apr 8

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4/8/2010 2:13 PM  RssIcon


Sitting on a park bench in the town plaza facing the Pacific swell that was crashing on the beach it hit me, I guess I am a sailor.  I've never dared called myself one before that moment.  Bred like most Americans to identify myself by what I held for work, I'd answer people's questions, "What do you do" with responses like professional vagabond, unemployed, wonderer, nothing, or simply, "I'm a bum".  Maybe it is because the sea teaches constant humility that I never dared consider myself a sailor.  Presumption isn't a trait this lady admires.  Only time will tell if I'll be able to call myself a sailor when someone else asks, but 15 months into my circumnavigation I am only just now getting used to the idea.

Yesterday I very closely related to the small, brightly colored fish you see darting in and out of the crevices of coral reefs when the bigger fish swim past.  Scuba diving on Gordan Rocks I plummeted not only in depth, but on the very food chain.  Currents at the site run very strong and from all directions.  Often, all you can do is grab on to the rock wall, the remnant of a volcanic crater, and hang on as the water screams past.  Eventually, you'll find a lull in the current and you can make progress again.  All the while, a sharp lookout is kept to the dark blue waters towards the open sea.  We were not under 20 minutes before a school of four, large, hammer head sharks appeared out of the gloom to swim by and beyond us.  These were the first of many sharks we saw on the dive.  More than a few made me scramble from the more open water a few feet from the wall, back to the walls safety where it felt only slightly more safe to view this ancient species.  This was the best dive of my life.

On diving.  There are three or four very reputable dive shops on Santa Cruz in the Galapagos.  Sub-Aqua was the most reputable shop going to  Gordon Rocks on the day I wanted to go.  So, I signed up and returned in the afternoon before the dive to fit my gear.  Upon discovering it had been several years since my last dive they informed me that it was a bad idea for me to try this dive.  They felt with the currents described above I would not be safe given my more limited experience.  Now, anyone who knows me well generally knows I can't be told what I can or cannot do.  So, I walked down the street, found another dive shop, and got my trip sorted.  Awesome.  I don't fault Sub-Aqua for being a professional outfit who was concerned about my experience, but if you want to make something happen, you can always find a way.

Rules and the Galapagos.  This place has beautiful scenery and biological diversity like no other.  On the other hand, the islands are so locked down as to make me want to give the whole place the finger and sail away.  Sailboats without something called the autographo are restricted to one, single port on one island.  This means that unless you sign up for a cruise on one of their passenger boats you are pretty limited on what you can do.  I've seen all the land based sites on Santa Cruz and will be sailing for Isabella in the next day or two.  Once there I'll take another day trip by car, horse, and foot to the most active of the volcanic craters here in the islands.  Following that, I'll do a quick snorkel with some penguins.  Then, I'll either set sail for Marquesas, or I am going to go back country in my own boat until the Ecuadorian Navy kicks me out of the Galapagos.

Eyes:  Greg, my buddy from s/v Coconut, is a pretty good artist.  Walking the docks several years ago in Kemah, TX I saw a boat that had a pair of eyes painted on the bow.  I thought they looked cool, but didn't really know what they were or where they came from.  A little research turned up the Eye of Ra.  This protective symbol is used to scare evil spirits away and provide safe passage for fisherman and boaters in the Far East.  The more time I spend out here the more mixing a little superstition into my normal practicality seems to make for a good blend.  Now Jargo can see where she is heading.

French Polynesia:  3000 miles away lie my next destination after Isla Isabella.  This will take 25 - 40 days from one island to another.  I should be underway by the end of the week.


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4 comment(s) so far...


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Re: Galapagos: Too many random thoughts.

i am really enjoying living vicariously thru your blog! please keep posting!

By shannon on   4/9/2010 9:30 AM
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Re: Galapagos: Too many random thoughts.

Thrilled you are taking in the Galapagos!!! How I wish I were with you. Love, Mom

By Mom on   4/9/2010 11:29 AM
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Re: Galapagos: Too many random thoughts.

heyyy : ] just dropping by to see how your doin pa winters (your uncle..if you dont remember me lol ) told me to check out your site. hope your doing well and good luck and have fun

By monica winters on   4/10/2010 9:54 PM
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Re: Galapagos: Too many random thoughts.

Don't miss, Puerto Galera Philippines....Great Diving and scenery! Hope to see you out there someday Lee ..

By John McMahan on   4/11/2010 2:16 AM

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